Description
David Schildknecht: The Keller 2009 Westhofener Kirchspiel RieslingGrosses Gewachs features pungent, piquant lime zest, peach kernel,and cherry pit allied to tart citrus and yellow plum, salt andchalk, all of which make for an almost fiercely penetrating andinvigoratingly persistent if spare and lightly astringentperformance. This certainly isn't about flattery or ingratiation.German growers and critics love applying the word "puristic" tosuch a Riesling, which I suppose is better than "puritanical" – butmy, is this wine strict! As it took on air, a slightly moreenticing, saliva-inducing sense of salinity and shellfish reductionemerged. I don't envision it ever achieving the delicacy and poisethat its 2008 rendition displayed even at this young age, but itshould certainly be fascinating as well as palate-stimulating tofollow in the course of the coming decade. While Keller has nowbegun to implement the plan I discussed in issue 187 of releasingsome Grosse Gewachse only in the year after bottling, that delayedrelease will not apply to either the Hubacker or Kirchspiel,although based on my perception of the latter's personality, itabove all should be considered as a candidate.
Wine Specs
- Vintage: 2009
- Producer: Keller Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewachs
- Volume: 750ml
- Case Size: 6/case
Supplier: WineCave (Dropship)
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